This couldn't keep happening to me. I popped my head out of the water and started gasping for air. "Soon you’ll be able to stay on the board," said Kailani, my surf instructor. “Yeah, sure,” I answered pushing myself once more to get on the table “I don't think this is for me, Kailani.” "We've only been on this for an hour, Roy,” he said patting me on the back. "You just have to keep your balance and let yourself go... Come on, here comes a good one." How the hell did that man know it was a good wave? I hadn’t the slightest idea, I only knew how to fall, be rolled by the waves and swallow water. I got into position and waited for the ideal moment to get back up and end up being dragged again. “Forget this!” I exclaimed when I returned to the surface, "I refuse to try again, God... I'm so tired!" I heard his laugh as I came out of the water and threw on the sand. "I have a better idea," he said sitting down next
ปรับปรุงล่าสุด : 2021-07-09 อ่านเพิ่มเติม